Received Warm Yeast in the Mail
Hey I was going to ask this at the meeting last night, but forgot.
I ordered an ingredient kit from William's Brewing and they did not include any grain to steep. Is something missing? Also when I received the package, it had been sitting on my front door step half the day and liquid yeast package was super warm. Is the yeast bad now?
Replies to This Discussion
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2012 BoardPermalink Reply by Rob Fullmer on -
Make a starter and see if the yeast is viable.
http://www.homebrewtalk.com/wiki/index.php/Starter
Yeast Starter
With most liquid yeasts, the use of a starter is necessary in order to create a viable amount of pitchable yeast. Even yeasts marketed as directly pitchable can benefit from the creation of a starter. A starter reduces lag time, before fermentation commences, and can help prevent a stuck fermentation. A typical starter involves fermenting a vial or package of liquid yeast in a small amount of wort a few days before brewing. Dry yeasts typically do not require a starter. Making a starter with dry yeast can be detrimental to their performance because they may deplete their nutrient reserves before pitching.
[edit] Theory
The recommended pitching rate for most ales is 0.75M-1M cells/(mL*P) and 1.5M-2M cells/(mL*P) for most lagers, where P is the degrees Plato of the wort. Given unlimited oxygen and nutrient supplies (think DAP and Stir Plate), a starter produces 10M-15M cells/(mL*P). Most brewers restrict the Plato of the starter to be 10P or less, citing yeast stress and off-flavors for more concentrated starters.
For example, suppose I want to make a starter for 19L of ale at 12P. This requires 1M cells/(mL*P) * 19,000mL * 12P = 228G cells (228 billion). Since the typical White Labs vial and Wyeast Activator packet only provide 100G cells, it is in my best interest to make a starter. If the starter wort is 10P, then the volume of the starter should be 228G cells / (10M cells/(mL*P) * 10P ) = 2,228 mL.
[edit] Yeast Starter Procedure
Making a starter is relatively straightforward, far easier than brewing an entire batch of beer.
* Allow yeast to come to room temperature. If it is a smack pack, smack it first.
* Bring one pint of water to a boil in a two quart saucepan on the stove top.
* Reduce the heat, add one half cup of Dry Malt Extract (DME) to the water, and mix it thoroughly.
* Gently boil the wort for ten minutes.
* Remove the saucepan from the stove top, and cool it to room temperature, ~75ºF (~24ºC).
* Put the cool wort into an approximately half gallon (~2L) container.
* Cover and aerate thoroughly.
* Pour the contents of the yeast vial or smack pack into the container.
* Shake to mix the yeast into the wort.
* Cover the container with a piece of foil or a loose-fitting cap. Place on stir plate at this time if you have one.
* There will be very little sign of activity, but the starter should be ready in one to three days.
* You may step up the starter by adding additional wort over a period of days.
* After you have brewed your full batch, you may either:
o Shake the entire mixture again and pitch it into the wort
OR
* Chill the mixture a few hours to a day before pitching to drop the yeast out of suspension
* Decant off the top layer of liquid before pitching just the yeast into the wort
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Competition CommitteePermalink Reply by Barry Weeg on -
Well, Rob's got you covered on the yeast. If you see activity with the starter, you're good to go. If not...well there's your answer.
As for the grain, it depends on the kit style. A pilsner or wheat beer might not require any steeping grains. A stout or Scottish definitely should. What was the style?
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2012 BoardPermalink Reply by Rob Fullmer on -
I wanted to add also, that I understand the appeal of online ordering and bulk grain purchases. I've done them. It's fast and easy and sometimes less expensive.
However, we live in AZ and yeast shipments, even on ice, are not practical.
This is why we have and should support our local stores.
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Permalink Reply by Kevin Masaryk on -
You can also try Homebrewers Outpost in Flagstaff for mail order in case you're not happy with the stores in the valley for some reason. I've had good experiences with them in the past and I know many other who have also.
If you're going to do mail order kits, I'd seriously think about using dry yeasts which are much more resilient than liquid yeasts when subjected to shipping conditions. IMHO, you only really 'need' liquid yeasts for about 20% of the styles out there; e.g. there's no dry equivalent for a Westmalle yeast. Fermentis (Safale/Safbrew) and Lallemand make outstanding dry yeasts.
Even if you're able to make a starter and get some activity from it, I'd expect very low viability and population due to the stress of shipping during the hot months (now). Consider building it up a few times or adding another vial or a dry packet.
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Permalink Reply by Joshua Finlayson on -
From what I am reading most likely I will have to stop by Brewer's Connection for some German Ale Liquid Yeast. Fortunately it is under $10 and Need a couple of other things any ways. Plus, I think that William's Brewing will probably take the yeast back.
By the way, I have no issues with local beer stores, it just that the nearest one is a 45 min drive from my home and I thought that the mail order might be easier.
I will check out Homebrewers Outpost. Thanks!!!
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Permalink Reply by Joshua Finlayson on
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It is a porter recipe. There is a big bag of liquid malt extract.
Barry Weeg said:Well, Rob's got you covered on the yeast. If you see activity with the starter, you're good to go. If not...well there's your answer.
As for the grain, it depends on the kit style. A pilsner or wheat beer might not require any steeping grains. A stout or Scottish definitely should. What was the style?
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Permalink Reply by Ken "Triple Hopped" Forrey on -
With this being a Porter recipe kit it should have included some steeping grains. You should call William's Brewing and talk to them about it.
Joshua Finlayson said:It is a porter recipe. There is a big bag of liquid malt extract.
Barry Weeg said:Well, Rob's got you covered on the yeast. If you see activity with the starter, you're good to go. If not...well there's your answer.
As for the grain, it depends on the kit style. A pilsner or wheat beer might not require any steeping grains. A stout or Scottish definitely should. What was the style?
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Permalink Reply by Kevin Masaryk on
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There's also Brew Your Own Brew over on Baseline and Mesa Dr. or if you're in the west valley, What Ale's Ya. Both stores are great.
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2012 BoardPermalink Reply by Rob Fullmer on -
German Ale yeast for a porter?
Joshua Finlayson said:It is a porter recipe. There is a big bag of liquid malt extract.
Barry Weeg said:Well, Rob's got you covered on the yeast. If you see activity with the starter, you're good to go. If not...well there's your answer.
As for the grain, it depends on the kit style. A pilsner or wheat beer might not require any steeping grains. A stout or Scottish definitely should. What was the style?
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